When life gives you a cinderblock house, paint it?

Jalousie, a cinderblock shanytown in Petionville, Haiti

I’ve been under the weather the past few days so I’m a bit behind on my blog post. But I’ve wanted to talk about the colorful community of Jalousie. My first time driving by, I was struck by the beauty of all hues of yellows, pinks, purples and blues. So it was a surprise to me when I inquired about this community on the side of the mountain, to learn that Jalousie is one of Haiti’s biggest shantyowns, a slum of 45,000 residents.

Earlier this year, the Haitian government spent $1.4 million in an effort entitled "Beauty versus Poverty: Jalousie in Colors". The project included both the colorful makeover of Jalousie and the relocation of people from the displacement camps that sprouted up after Haiti's 2010 earthquake. Haitian painter, Prefete Duffaut’s, “Friends of Haiti”, inspired the colors of Jalousie bringing to life his “cities-in-the-skies.” 

Prefete Duffaut's Friends of Haiti

Jalousie has no traditional sewage system or electric grid. For water, residents must make there way to either an outdoor spigot or up the mountain to water stations where they can purchase 5 gallons of water for about 60 cents. As I referenced in a previous post about Miragoane, this is a pretty consistent theme around Haiti.

There is no denying the reality of poverty in Haiti.  It’s in your face all the time. Statistics estimate that 80 percent of Haitians live on less than $2 a day. But how do you change this?

Haitian protest in Port-au-Prince

Over the past 3 weeks I’ve meet with former prime ministers, heads of ministries, NGOs, foreign investors, business leaders, US agencies, parents and working professionals and the answers vary … reform, investment, culture, education, jobs, infrastructure, master planning, etc.  A better Haiti means all of these things, but included in this discussion needs to be a specific strategy to achieve equity. Albeit, the term “equity” has become bit of a buzzword lately in the debate for how to achieve sustainable cities, but what good is making the pie bigger if it can't be shared by all.  

So life may have given Haiti cinderblock houses, but Haiti's prosperity hinges on economic development as a means to create a prosperous and fair society.  

The Haiti We Never Get to Hear About

White sand, crystal clear blue waters and ocean sunsets. Yes, this all exists in Haiti. It's just the other side of Haiti we never get to hear about. Much like New Orleans and the public's limited perception of just Bourbon Street, when people think of Haiti, they think of the poverty and devastation in Port-au-Prince not beautiful beaches.

But this weekend I travel south to towards the Caribbean Sea to find a little piece of paradise and some much needed reprieve from Port-au-Prince.

Port Salut and Jacmel ...

Balancing Act

From the moment that I arrived in Haiti, I have seen men, women, and children carrying around containers on their heads in the markets, in the rain, up mountains, with perfect balance. This image has stuck with me as I’ve conducted my research on how the port of Miragoane can be leveraged as a regional economic development hub. In the field of economic development, we strive to achieve this level of balance. In my position with the Mayor’s Office of Economic Development, my goal is to spur the growth of a diverse economy that creates good-paying jobs and provides equal access to economic prosperity. However, job creation isn’t as easy as one may think. Every job is not a good job and every business that wants to enter the market doesn’t necessarily make it a good fit for the local economy.

Port of Miragoane

Cities, we compete for investment and we make ourselves competitive primarily through business friendly regulations, cheap and/or skilled labor, incentives, land supply, infrastructure, and quality of life indicators (housing, safety, schools, recreation, etc.).

Fortunately and unfortunately, Miragoane is a blank canvas. As I shared in a previous post, Sunday Brunch with the Senateur, Miragoane suffered greatly from disinvestment in the 1980’s and has since lacked any significant public or private investment.

Port of Miragoane

My visit last week showed that local merchants who sell second-hand goods received from shipments from the Port of Miami primarily support the local economy. Infrastructure is mostly non-existent and transportation from the Port of Miragoane to the rest of Haiti is challenging. However, a renewed interest by the National Port Authority to revitalize Haiti’s ports and the imminent opportunities by the widening of the Panama Canal, private industries are looking to capitalize on Haiti’s strategic location on trade routes.

Downtown Miragoane

Several proposed projects for Miragoane could introduce fuel storage, energy distribution and mining of natural resources to the region. The redevelopment of the port would support direct and indirect jobs and small-business opportunities in transportation, security and service industries. Private investments to sustain the port’s viability bring promise of improved roads, housing, electricity generation, public health and training facilitation. This, however, won’t happen for free. It’s likely the government of Haiti may explore concessions such as land, relocation of community members, infrastructure improvements and tax-exemptions to close a deal with interested companies.

In this delicate dance of economic development amongst stakeholders, policy and incentives, we set out to find that balance across bottom lines, community benefits, and the environment in hopes we do it as well as the men, women, and children carrying around containers on their heads in the markets, in the rain, up mountains of Haiti.

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words

My morning commute ...

Sunday Brunch with the Senateur

Me, Elodie, Gary, Senateur Privert

In order to identify the needs and opportunities of Miragoane, it's necessary to meet with the people who know Miragoane. 

Sunday morning, I was invited to join Senateur Jocelerme Privert at his home for a candid conversation about the development needs of Miragaone, the Department des Nippes and partake in some Haitian pumpkin soup.

Senateur Privert has served as the representative for the Department des Nippes  (this is equivalent to a state) for the past two years. Miragoane is the capitol of the department and the region has a population of about approximately 500,000 people. The department consists of 11 cities divided in two parts, coastal and mountain range.

At its height during the 1960’s and 70’s, Miragoane was a burgeoning port and processing hub for Reynolds Metal. However, disinvestment by the company in the 1980’s coupled with disinvestments in agriculture caused by trade policies lowering food import tariffs have since left the area desolate, absent some minimal exporting, subsistence farming and local merchants in the informal sector.

When asked about the development needs of Miragoane, the Senatuer shared a comprehensive list: electricity, water, infrastructure, jobs, human resources, housing, transportation, hospital and education facilitates, and recreation. With few opportunities to maintain self-sufficiency, those who are able to leave to region, do, in pursuit of better jobs, education and quality of life.

A 2002 article in the Miami Herald, paints a very bleak picture of Miragoane. Then Mayor, Gary Mazile, cites his frustration with the lack of basic needs and disbelief that international aid dedicated to help pay for much needed electricity and road infrastructure would ever reach the community. The situation in Miragoane eventually reached a boiling point and residents took to the streets demanding that a portion of tax dollars collected from import taxes be reinvested in the region.

Eleven years later, the region is beginning to see some improvement. A new road is under construction, money has been allocated in the budget to build an electrical substation, and the proposed private development project at the port has the potential to provide jobs, additional infrastructure improvements, and much needed electricity.

Senature Privert is optimistic that the existing port, fertile land and untouched beaches can be leveraged to create tremendous opportunities for agriculture, trade and tourism.  Later this week I am scheduled to travel to Miragoane, which is about 60 miles south of Port-au-Prince.

Haitian Pumpkin Soup

Now about the soup, I thought that soup for breakfast was a bit of an odd choice. But to my surprise, pumpkin soup has special significance in Haiti. It was considered a delicacy and too sophisticated for the Haitian slaves so the French forbade them from eating it.

Story has it that after the revolution of 1804, a large communal pot of the soup was made to celebrate independence.  Haitian pumpkin soup remains a tradition to celebrate the freedom of Haiti and is served on New Year’s Day (which is also Haitian Independence Day) to celebrate unity and good fortune. 

Pizza & Politics

So who comes to Haiti and eats pizza, apparently I do. But in my defense, it wasn’t a Chicago deep dish or New York thin crust but a Haitian style of “liquid pizza”. Saturday night, I went to dinner with my host Elodie and a couple of her friends to Pizza Garden restaurant and lounge. It was perfect weather for the outdoor patio set up and conversation that ensued.

Pizza Garden

It amazes me how informed those abroad are about American politics and current events. And even more shocking is how little I knew about Haiti. My decision to do the fellowship in Haiti was motivated by what I felt was our shared experience with natural disasters, comparable Caribbean cultures, and desire to deepen my understanding of the plight of Haiti from what was once considered the “pearl of Antilles” to being know today as the poorest country in the western hemisphere.

Saturday night I got the answer to my question, politics and economics.

"Liquid Pizza"

However, the stories my dinner companions shared with me on this history of Haiti since the 18^th century complicates the simplicity of Haiti’s current state resulting from just a matter of self-inflicted politics and economics but a myriad of obstacles.

(Note - this is a brief and unofficial account of Haiti’s history)

Under French rule, Haiti’s sugar and coffee exports provided for approximately 40 percent of all sugar and 60 percent of all coffee consumed in Europe. Following the revolution, in 1804, Haiti was place under an international boycott of goods and commerce to limit influence for slave uprisings in other countries. Coupled with this, France would not recognize Haiti independence until indemnities were paid for lands of former slave owners taken over after the revolution. Haiti debt to France was not paid until 1922. Additionally, the United States occupation of Haiti from 1915 until 1934 and ongoing aid to the country are also cited as impediments to Haiti’s economic position.

Will, Me, Reggie, Elodie

I think of this in terms of the game of Monopoly. Image that you have to sit out the first 10 rounds before you are invited to participate. By this time, all of the real estate has been bought; all the resources have been divided up.  When your starting position is so far behind everyone else’s you spend all your time just trying to stay a float, never mind trying to catch up or even getting ahead.

And add to this equation, Haiti’s internal issues with divisions amongst its elite and working class, political insatiability, government corruption, inability to complete globally, lack of social infrastructure, high unemployment, and most recently the 2010 earth quake that killed hundred of thousands of people, displaced over one million and practically leveled the country’s capital, Port-au-Prince.

 

Downtown Port-au-Prince

As the country rebuilds itself, there remains hope in the unseen.  The feeling I get being in Haiti is the same that I felt when I moved to New Orleans in 2011. There is something happening here, something good. That desire for one New Orleans, better than before is the same desire here in Haiti.

So all in all, it was great night out and as for the pizza, it’s definitely an acquired taste. 

Sak Pase

It’s been a week in Haiti.  Mwen byen (I’m well).

2013 Carnaval des Fleur

To my surprise I arrived just in time for the three-day festival, Carnaval des Fleur held in Port-au-Prince. Very similar to Mardi Gras, but think more people, crazy energy, less nudity, and Haitian musicians in place of our brass bands. I got a true Haitian experience dancing in the crowd and drinking the award winning local beer, Prestige.  

For two more weeks, I’ll be in Haiti thanks to the Partners of the America's Legislative Fellowship funded by the US State Department. The fellowship promotes professional exchanges for fellows to work abroad with organizations on projects. While in Haiti, I am working with the Center for Facilitation of Investment (CFI).  As it’s name suggest, CFI’s objective is to facilitate and promote private investment in Haiti. I was introduced to CFI through the Haiti New Orleans Heritage Task Force. My project with CFI will look at developing the Port of Miragoane as a regional economic development hub.

Val Adrien- APN, Me, Vladimir Leborde - CFI,

Elodie Lefort - CFI & Joseph Henry - APN

Besides Carnaval, this first week has been spent getting oriented to my new environment, setting up in my new office, and taking meetings, like the one I had with the Autorite Portuaire Nationale (National Port Authority) to get caught up to speed on the Port of Miragoane project.   

More to come, so please read my blog for updates on my travel and progress on my project.

Orevwa!